Exploring Japan Through Jazz - Part Two

The final batch of Tokyo’s jazz kissas, including Miles, Eagle, Paper Moon, and more.

I adore Japan’s jazz kissas probably more than any other space in the world. As a jazz lover, I can’t think of a better place to spend my free time. That said, it’s probably for the best that I’m a 10-hour flight away from Japan because it would be hard for me to do anything else with my time.

In part one of this series, I covered the first handful of jazz kissas in Tokyo that I visited during my trip last October/November, with a very brief introduction to the jazz kissa for the uninitiated. In this part, I’ll cover the final batch of jazz kissas I visited in Tokyo, including some of my new favourite spots.

---

Miles
Matsubara

I didn’t get around to visiting Miles until my very last night in Japan, but I couldn’t have imagined a better send-off than a visit to this brilliant jazz kissa. My time there left me inspired, exhilarated, and motivated. It may have also been the final push I needed to start this very blog that I’d put off for almost a year. Miles is the oldest currently active jazz kissa in all of Tokyo, and you can genuinely feel the history of the place, where jazz prints and signage seem to have been imprinted onto the walls. During my two-hour visit, it was just myself, the master, and a local regular who, as fate would have it, spoke English. We struck up a conversation, and after hearing me gush about my passion for jazz, he told me about the history of the place — how John Coltrane and Pharoah Sanders visited many years ago and sat in the very seats we were sitting in (the master even pulled out a signed record by the duo!). The master asked what I wanted to listen to, and we spent a couple of hours enjoying Ryo Fukui, Kenny Dorham, and Isao Suzuki as they showed me exclusive first-edition records. When I left, the master wrote his name on a piece of paper, shook my hand, and told me to visit again soon. If I could recommend just one jazz kissa to visit, it’s Miles.

---

Eagle
Yotsuya

Located just a short walk from Yotsuya Station, Eagle is the type of place where you could easily spend an entire afternoon. Unlike many other kissas throughout Japan, Eagle occupies a relatively large basement space, with warm lighting and wood-paneled decor, making it a perfect place to truly relax for as long as you desire. The coffee is hot, and the music is loud. The space has recently been refurbished, so it may not look like it, but Eagle first opened in the late 1960s. I visited during the day when it was a strictly no-speaking environment; however, in the evenings, it transforms into a more social venue where casual conversation is encouraged. They also have great merch, and I couldn’t resist leaving without a cap and tote bag.

---

Jazz Kissa Hayasi
Shimokitazawa

Climb up to the second floor of an unassuming building on a quiet side street in Shimokitazawa, and you’ll find Jazz Kissa Hayasi. I adored this cozy, relaxing space so much that I went back for a second visit just two days later. If you’re lucky, grab a seat by the window at dusk and let the afternoon turn into evening while listening to some incredible music from the knowledgeable mama. I love discovering new music at jazz kissas, and Jazz Kissa Hayasi is one of the best places for discovery. Here, you’re likely to hear a local specialty alongside deep cuts from legends of the genre. Piano Jazz by Guido Manusardi played during my first visit, and it’s stayed with me ever since. If I lived in Tokyo, I’d be visiting at least once a week.

---

Marshmallow
Yokohama

Just a short walk from the bustling strip of Yokohama Chinatown is Marshmallow, an incredible old-school jazz kissa. Marshmallow is one of those places that feels untouched, as if you had visited many years ago, it would look very much the same as it does today. The thing that stood out most to me is how hospitable this place is. When I mentioned to the mama that the John Coltrane record she had queued up was one of my favorites, she quickly ran over to pull down the record sleeve for me to inspect up close. A couple of regulars must have overheard because they started bringing me books about Coltrane to check out. Marshmallow is a fantastic spot that will make you fall in love with jazz all over again.

---

Paper Moon
Ikebukuro

Paper Moon was recommended to me by a mutual on Threads, and for some reason, it was one I couldn’t miss. Maybe it was the name that drew me in, or the images I saw online, but there seemed to be something special about it. I set out one Sunday evening, well within the opening hours, only to find a sign on the door saying the kissa was closed. Feeling a little defeated, I took another trip out to Ikebukuro a week later, and I’m really glad I made the effort. Paper Moon is the quintessential smoky, old-school space with a fantastic atmosphere and an incredible sound system. The bar is small — very small, actually — so it was a huge surprise to discover, through a local I was chatting with, that they used to host live jazz some nights right behind the bar. Musicians would often have to play squeezed in behind it! It’s not as raucous today as I’m sure it was back then, but it’s certainly still a gem for any jazz lover.

---

Rompercicci
Nakano

This charming space is almost the antithesis of the other jazz kissas on this list. Rather than being a dark, smoky place stuck in the past, Rompercicci is bright, brand new, and more akin to a cafe you’d visit for brunch, which makes sense as it opens at 11 am. But appearances can be deceiving. This is not a place for socializing; the music is taken very seriously, and the focus is on listening. There’s free Wi-Fi, so you’re unlikely to get kicked out for overstaying your welcome. It’s a perfect spot for a coffee before heading to one of the more bar-themed kissas later in the evening.

---

Thanks for reading! Next week, I’ll be moving on to the jazz kissas in Kyoto and Osaka. Album of the week is another recent release from Australia, this time it’s Outlines by Austin Salisbury, Alistair Peel and Peter Evans. The trio will actually be performing at The Jazzlab this April. More information here.