Exploring Japan Through Jazz - Part Three

The new and old jazz kissas of Kyoto and Osaka.

In parts one and two of this series, I explored the Tokyo jazz kissas I visited during my stay in Japan last October and November. This week, it’s time to head south to both Kyoto and Osaka.

There’s a rich history of jazz in both Kyoto and Osaka, which continues to thrive today. Jazz first flourished in Japan thanks to port cities such as these, where Western imports could make their way onto the mainland. In a few short years, Osaka became a hotspot for live performance, while Kyoto perfected the jazz kissa, or listening bar. This not only reflects the distinct personalities of these contrasting cities but also demonstrates how they interpreted and appropriated this unique genre of music.

I only spent a short time in each city, so my jazz exploration was unfortunately limited. However, I’m glad to have made time to visit all of these fantastic places that I believe any jazz lover should prioritise.

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Jazz Hanaya
Kyoto

Starting strong with perhaps my favourite jazz kissa outside of Tokyo. Jazz Hanaya, a must-visit spot for any jazz lover in Kyoto. Sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate between jazz kissas, as almost all of them are dark, smoky, and cluttered. Jazz Hanaya is certainly all of those things, but there’s a special atmosphere that makes it stand out from the rest: the husband-and-wife duo who run the bar. The master found out I was visiting from Australia and kindly played some Australian jazz before launching into a lengthy discussion with a regular about all things Australia. This place feels like it’s been here forever, and similarly, it feels like the master and mama have been married forever. The way they finish each other’s tasks and know what the other needs before even they do feels natural and is a joy to behold. And of course, there’s the music. The wonderful, splendid, inspiring music that’s on rotation from the magnificent collection amassed over many, many years is worth the visit alone.

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Jazz Spot Yamatoya
Kyoto

In a word: charming! Jazz Spot Yamatoya is a small trek from central Kyoto, but it’s well worth the effort. Much like Jazz Hanaya, it feels like it’s been around forever and is run by an elderly couple who control absolutely everything. It’s also open in the afternoon, and during my visit, I noticed a steady stream of regulars whose orders were already known by the master and mama as soon as they walked in. The space is full of old relics that you might find in your cool grandmother’s house—if she was into 1960s jazz. Jazz Spot Yamatoya is such a special place, but it also had me thinking about how these venues won’t be around forever. It’s vitally important to visit them now while we still can.

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Jazz in Rokudenashi
Kyoto

There are certain jazz kissas where you go just to hear something you’ve likely never heard before. Not just new artists or albums, but totally new sounds. Jazz in Rokudenashi is one of those places. Don’t expect to hear jazz you can relax to with a drink; this is a place for experimentation and discovery. It’s appropriately tiny, meaning you may end up cramped in a corner sitting on something that barely resembles a chair. However, that’s part of its charm. It’s been open for more than 40 years, and I like to think it’s been blowing people’s minds since day one.

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Jazz Cafe Chetty
Kyoto

Most jazz kissas are welcoming spaces, but perhaps none more so than Jazz Cafe Chetty, which feels like hanging out in someone’s living room as they show you through their extensive record collection. The living room description is no joke—this cozy place really does feel like you’ve walked into someone’s sacred space, down to taking your shoes off at the door and the soft, warm lighting. I was the only patron during my visit, so I ended up having a fantastic conversation with the mama, who told me one of her favorite things is recommending music to others. And what fantastic recommendations she gives! I have her to thank for introducing me to Renato Sellani, Fred Hersch, and Tadataka Unno, all of whom have become part of my regular rotation. There’s nothing better than being in the company of someone who knows what they’re doing and is doing what they’re meant to. That’s the best way I can describe the experience you’ll get at Jazz Cafe Chetty.

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Bird/56
Osaka

Maybe the most fun you’ll have at a jazz kissa! I absolutely adored Bird/56, which is located on a side street just off the craziness of Dotonbori. The service is fantastic, and the space is full of vibrancy, energy, and great jazz on the record player, including Bill Evans, Louis Armstrong, and Sonny Clark. The interior is a lovely mix of walls stacked with records and others covered in notes left by visitors. It’s such a pleasure seeing so many touching comments from people from all corners of the globe. Bird/56 clearly has a lasting impact on those who visit, and it’s certainly one I won’t be forgetting.

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Top Rank
Osaka

In the very same building as Bird/56 is Top Rank, another fantastic Osaka jazz kissa. This one is extremely small, cluttered, and mostly comprises bar seating. It might not be for everyone, but it was certainly for me. I knew I’d love this place from the moment I discovered that the master has an obvious fondness for Ryo Fukui, with a plethora of his records, quotes, and comments on display. Top Rank embodies the jazz kissa ethos, where legendary musicians are regarded as something more than legends. It’s an intimate, late-night dive that you absolutely need to stop by if you’re in the mood for a few more drinks after a visit upstairs to Bird/56.

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Thanks for reading! I can’t wait to share Part Four of this series next week, where I’ll look at the live music venues I visited in Japan. I’ve been on a Charles Mingus kick as of late, so my recommended album for this week is Mingus Ah Um, a genuine classic.